All low handicappers and golfers who are serious about shooting the lowest scores possible consider flex in their clubs. It makes the science of hitting the ball so much easier, which translates to more enjoyment on the course.

Now, when I say “flex”, I am referring to the ability of a golf shaft to bend as forces are applied to it during the golf swing. Just go ahead and “waggle” your club a little and see how much the shaft bends and you will get an idea of what “flex” is.

There are five basic categories or types of shaft flex:

1. Extra Stiff
2. Stiff
3. Regular
4. Senior
5. Ladies

Why is the flex in your shaft important? Well, when you have a flex that doesn’t match the needs of your swing, the result is the clubface being misaligned at impact, causing your shots to go off-target. Not good. To be more specific, your flex will impact how straight you hit the ball, how high or low it goes and how long or short it travels.

Keep in mind one very important thing about the shaft of your club and its flex. As the shaft flexes throughout the swing, the position of the clubhead will change. This means you need a shaft that will properly match your swing type and speed so that it can deliver the clubface back to a square position at impact.

For example, if the flex of your clubs is too stiff, the clubface will tend to be open, sending the ball in a slicing direction. Or, if you have clubs with a shaft flex that is not very stiff, the clubhead will be tend to be closed at impact, resulting in a hook.

Choose Your Flex Type

I always am experimenting with different shafts and flex types because I know that if my swing is on plane and accurate, my shaft flex type can be adversely affecting my results.

Here’s what I do:

• Your driver will be your best gauge on which flex you need. Not 100% accurate but the best club to use for this purpose. If you can carry you driver 250 yards or more, go with Stiff; 230-250 yards, Regular; 200-230 yards, Senior; less than 200 yards, Ladies. What about Extra Stiff? I can count the number of people on one hand that actually need or use an Extra Stiff shaft. Only guys like John Daily and Long Drive Champions need that type.

• If shots with your driver tend to go left, you might benefit from a stiffer flex; if your drives go right, you might benefit from a softer flex.

• If you know (or have been told) you have a very smooth swing, you might benefit from a softer flex even if you swing very fast. Further, if you have a swing that gets jerky at the top, especially starting the downswing, you’ll probably need a stiffer shaft.

The Best (and most accurate way) to Choose Flex Type

If you are not comfortable determining which flex you should choose on your own, go see your local pro at the course you play at or your driving range. This will take
a lot of the guesswork out of the equation.

A good pro will take a lot of measurements, watch your swing, measure your swing speed, watch your ball flight and be able to tell you with certainty which flex is right for you.

What you want to do is to experiment by hitting lots of different clubs and watching the effects on your shots of changing shaft flex.

If you find a flex that feels good and produces a good ball flight, there’s a good chance that’s the right flex for you.

And lastly, here’s the best advice I can give on choosing flex. Most high-handicappers (especially men) tend to over-swing. If this describes you (and you know who you are), you should consider a softer flex to help you slow your swing down. Slowing down the swing will certainly produce more accurate shots and better distance control.

Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book How To Break 80 And Shoot Like The Pros. He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that was able to figure out the secrets of shooting in the 70’s on a consistent basis without quitting your day job. Jack has helped thousands of golfers from all seven continents lower their handicap immediately.

During the 1972 British Open at Muirfield, Scotland, Tony Jacklin and Lee Trevino attacked the 9th hole from the tee. Jacklin went for the carry over the left-hand fairway bunker, while Trevino played more conservatively down the right side. Both finished in the rough, but within iron distance of the green. Two amazing shots followed, both landing about 20 yards (18 m) short of but running onto the green. Both players then holed their putts for eagles.

Hitting into the rough is the most common problem a golfer faces. Even golfing legends like Trevino and Jacklin find themselves in the rough more often than they’d like. But by making a few adjustments you can get yourself out of trouble and back onto the fairway without costing yourself strokes.

When a recreational golfer finds himself in the rough, he often lets the situation intimidate him. Instead of assessing the lie, like many golf instruction manuals suggest, he grabs a club and slashes away, hitting into the rough again or into more trouble. By the time he finishes, he’s hacked out an 8 on the scorecard.

Hitting from the rough—whether heavy and thick or light and fluffy—trips up many golfers—even those who’ve taken golf lessons. But learning how to can get out of the rough doesn’t take a lot of instruction. It just takes a bit of discretion and knowing what adjustments to make.

Thick Rough

Hitting into the thick rough is the more common scenario. The problem is the thickness of the grass. It grabs the hosel of your club and closes the clubface at impact, causing you to pull the ball left (for right handers). The grass also reduces club head speed and takes backspin off the ball. Heavy clumps of grass require almost brute force to get out of.

Choosing the right club is crucial, as most golf tips point out. You need a club with a sharp leading edge, like the shorter irons. The edge cuts through the thick grass, giving the best chance of catching the ball squarely. Try a lofted wood (5,7,9) or lofted iron (9 iron, pitching wedge). The loft gets you airborne quicker. If the ball is buried, try the 6 iron. And don’t try to hit a big hook or big slice. The deeper, thicker grass makes the ball go straight.

Ball position is also crucial: Too far forward means there’s too much grass to get through. Too far back means there’s not enough loft to get the ball airborne. Position the ball left of center (for right handers) with the longer clubs, and right of center with the shorter clubs.

In addition, do the following:

• Take a steeper angle of attack
• Keep your hands ahead of the club.
• Lean your weight forward
• Take a normal stance
• Aim your body slightly left
• Open your clubface
• Take a divot after the ball

Two other adjustments: set your wrists a fraction earlier than normal during takeaway and center your weight over the ball at the top of your back swing.

Light Fluffy Rough

Hitting from a light fluffy lie requires different adjustments, but it’s no less challenging. Like the thick rough, the real culprit is the grass.

With fluffy grass the ball sits up high, almost as if it were on a tee, so don’t take your normal swing. You need to avoid undercutting the ball, which prevents solid contact. Instead, try sweeping it off the “tee,” with the blade of your club barely touching the tips of the grass.

In addition, do the following:

• Choke down on the club
• Play the ball father forward
• Hover the club at address
• Restrict your back swing
• End with a balanced finish

Move your hands about an inch (2.5 cm) down the grip and position the ball farther forward in your stance, which encourages more of a sweeping motion through the swing.
Hovering the club permits you to catch the ball flush and guards against the ball moving at address. Choking down on the club restricts your backswing, but also hinge your wrists just a little earlier in your takeaway. Also, stop the club short of the horizontal position at the top of the backswing. Try to end with a balanced finish.

Hitting into the rough—whether it’s deep and thick or light and fluffy—doesn’t have to intimidate you. Just gather yourself and make the right adjustments and you’ll overcome the challenge. Also, stay within yourself. Don’t try to do too much. If the rough looks really challenging, punch it out onto the fairway.

The idea is to put yourself in position to hit the next shot, not cost yourself more strokes by hacking away. You may not land on the green with your next swing, but like Trevino and Jacklin, you might just hit a shot that leads to a surprising finish—and maybe a lower handicap.

Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book “How To Break 80 And Shoot Like The Pros.” He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that has helped thousands of golfers from all seven continents lower their handicap immediately. He has a free weekly newsletter with the latest golf tips, golf lessons and golf instruction.

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How To Break 80 Newsletter

February 13, 2006
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This issue includes…

1) Driving for Accuracy
2) Fairway Woods: Versatile Tools

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1) Driving for Accuracy
===============================================
Every course has at least one hole that tests driving accuracy.
It may not be the longest on the course but one mistake and in
you’re in trouble. These holes also add strokes to your scores.
Add enough strokes and you increase your golf handicap.

Teaching pros focus on mechanics to improve accuracy. Their
advice usually sounds like this: “Accuracy is about balance,
control, and rhythm. Keep your swing on plane, maintain good
rhythm, and control your clubface. Don’t lift your right heel
(for right-handed golfers) too high. Don’t pin your right elbow
to your body. And feel your right shoulder hit your chin as you
make contact with the ball.” These golf tips are good advice
for improving technique.

How about mentally? Are there any mental tips to help improve
accuracy? Try these the next time must hit the fairway:

• Don’t assume your going to hit a perfect shot
• Relax. Don’t allow tension to creep into your set-up
• Tee up on the side of trouble to guard against a bad shot
• Aim for a clear definite target within reach
• Don’t worry about distance. Accuracy is the priority.

Keeping these mental tips in mind and using proper swing
mechanics helps improve your accuracy.

Now, here’s an accuracy drill used by Davis Love III when he
was young. His father taught it to him. He had Davis work on
hitting 125 to 150 yard shots while taking a full driver swing.
Once Davis learned this, he progressed to 175, 200, 250, and
finally, 300 yards. The drill develops a heightened sense
of rhythm.

Try these out and you’ll be hitting it straighter and build more
confidence with every swing.

===============================================
2) Fairway Woods: Versatile Tools
===============================================
The fairway wood is one of golf’s most versatile tools. It generates
the extra distance you need on par 5s, serves as a putter on the
fringe of the green, and digs you out of the rough. In fact, digging
you out of the rough is one of its best uses. But hitting a fairway
wood from long grass is not the same as hitting it from the fairway.

Below are some tips for hitting fairway woods from

• Position the ball inside your left heal (for right handers)
• Put your hand slightly in front of the ball
• Hit the ball with a descending blow
• Keep the club low on takeaway and through impact
• Swing with the same tempo as the seven-iron
• Keep your head steady throughout the swing

If you can see most of the back of the ball, you can hit a wood from
the rough. Take a slightly steeper swing. You want to feel like you’re
hitting down on the ball more than normally. Position the ball in the
middle of your stance with hands in front of the ball for a 7 wood.

To learn to hit consistent shots with a fairway wood, place a tee about
6 inches in front of the ball. When you swing, use the tee as a
reference point as you extend through the ball.

Also, practice making a wider arc on your backswing by extending
your arms away from the target. Also extend the right arm on the
follow-through. You’ll find it easier hit a fairway wood after doing this.
Plus, you’ll increase the distance you hit these balls. Remember, the
wider the arc, the more clubhead speed; the more club head speed,
the more distance.

===============================================
If you want to truly discover the secrets of shooting like the Pros
and creating a more reliable and consistent swing,
check out: http://www.HowToBreak80.com

Also, for past issues of this newsletter and some of my most
recent articles, visit our blog at www.HowToBreak80.com/blog

Until next time, Go Low!

Jack

P.S. Feel free to share this newsletter with family and friends.
If you would like to subscribe to this newsletter, send a
blank email to htb80newsletter@aweber.com
===============================================

===============================================
How To Break 80 Newsletter

February 6, 2006
===============================================

This issue includes…

1) The Wet Bunker
2) Stay In Shape In the Off Season

===============================================
1) The Wet Bunker
===============================================
Nothing upsets a golfer more than hitting into a bunker. Getting
out of a bunker is difficult for some. Getting out of a wet bunker
even harder. The wetness adds another dimension to the shot.

Determine the hardness of the sand first. Test it with your shoes
before hitting. The shoe test tells you if the sand is hard-packed,
just firm, or soft with a thin crust.

If the sand is firm or hard packed, replace you sand wedge with a
pitching wedge. It digs in and under the ball better than a sand
wedge, preventing skulling.

If the sand is firm:

-Set up a bit wider than usual
-Make a low sweeping take away
-Hit down briskly one inch behind the ball

If the sand is hard-packed:

-Play the ball as you would from hard dirt
-Square the blade
-Play the ball back in your stance
-Set the hands ahead of the ball
-Pick the ball cleanly off the surface

If the sand has a thin crust, play the shot as a typical bunker shot.
Use a sand wedge, especially if the sand is deep and powdery.

Also, be weary of the trap that has loose sand over a harder surface—
the trickiest of all bunkers. Attack these with a heavy-flanged wedge.
Use the sand wedge, if you don’t have one. Your club glides smoothly
out of the sand, unless you dig a little too deeply into the hard
underbelly. When that happens, the club head slows down, causing
you to leave the ball in the sand.

Most bunker shots have a slight margin for error. Attack them
confidently, regardless of the type of sand they contain.

===============================================
2) Stay In Shape In the Off Season
===============================================
Staying fit improves your golf game and your golf handicap. It’s
especially important in the winter when we we’re less active.
Participating in a golf specific exercise program helps. It improves
your game and your quality of life.

A golf specific conditioning program consists of:

1. Resistance training
2. Cardiovascular conditioning
3. Flexibility exercises

Resistance training enhances swing mechanics, increases clubhead
speed, and prevents over-use injuries. Improving your fitness level
generates more distance with less effort and a more consistent ball
flight. Conditioning helps your body and muscles withstand the
physical strain of playing golf.

Improving your cardiovascular system boosts energy levels. It also
helps you fight fatigue and stay focused for 18 holes. Waking, biking,
stair stepping, and running are all good cardiovascular exercises.
Swimming is the best. It improves your cardiovascular systems and
builds muscle mass. Being aerobically fit improves your confidence
as well.

Flexibility exercises increase the range of joint motion. Decreased
flexibility in shoulders, hips, or the lower back interferes with your
swing mechanics. Also, the aging process causes loss of elasticity
in tendons, ligaments, and muscle. Flexibility exercises combat
these tendencies.

PGA pro Jamie Mulligan includes Bikram Yoga in his conditioning
program. Bikram involves making precise movements for 90 minutes
in a superheated room. It keeps the body loose and supple and
strengthens concentration and focus. Mulligan also includes isometrics
and light lifting in his workout program. He lifts weights with his palms
open to duplicate the “softness” he feels in his golf swing. In addition,
he includes balance exercises with an exercise ball in the
cardiovascular component.

Regardless of your age, gender, or skill level, a golf specific
conditioning program improves your game and your quality of life.

===============================================
If you want to truly discover the secrets of shooting like the Pros
and creating a more reliable and consistent swing,
check out: http://www.HowToBreak80.com

Also, for past issues of this newsletter and some of my most
recent articles, visit our blog at http://www.HowToBreak80.com/blog

Until next time, Go Low!

Jack

P.S. Feel free to share this newsletter with family and friends.
If you would like to subscribe to this newsletter, send a
blank email to htb80newsletter@aweber.com
===============================================