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How To Break 80 Newsletter

April 5, 2006

“The Web’s Most Popular Golf Improvement Newsletter”
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In this issue we’ll discuss…

1) How Many Swings Do You Have?
2) Drill To Make Perfect Contact
 
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1) How Many Swings Do You Have?
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You can have several different swings but from a pure teaching and
mechanical standpoint you might be surprised at the answer. You
only really need two.

We want to keep it as simple as we can. The two swings are:

1) The full swing …where we go from the bottom (address position) to the top of our comfortable range and back to the bottom where we make impact. Solid , magical results always…right?

2) The less than full swing…where we do not get to our comfortable top of the swing. This is an abbreviated swing and we use them often. So you only need two swings with fourteen or more clubs.

This includes your putter which makes less than a full swing.

Once we know exactly how far each club goes, we should generally make all full swings until the yardage is shorter than our full swing pitching or sand wedge. From this distance in we then adjust with less than full swings.

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2) Drill To Make Perfect Contact
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If you want to hit straight drives, you have to make solid contact. You can only do so with a square clubface.

The principle you use to square the clubface at impact is the same
as the one hockey players use to hit a slap shot. In hockey, the shooter’s hands are separated as he winds up.

Borrow that move while you’re waiting on the tee box to free up your hinging action and release. You’ll hit a more accurate drive when it’s your turn to play.

Here’s what to do:

• Stand on the side of a tee box and take your normal driver address, but to the side of the ball (photo at right).

• Slide your right hand to the bottom of the grip so it is separated from your left hand.

• Swing back and through, feeling how your left hand controls the top of the club and your right hand guides the clubhead. Re-create that feeling when you’re ready to hit.

Use this drill and you’ll be sure to make solid contact more often.

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If you want to truly discover the secrets of shooting like the Pros
and creating a more reliable and consistent swing,
check out: http://www.HowToBreak80.com

Also, for past issues of this newsletter and some of my most
recent articles, visit our blog at www.HowToBreak80.com/blog

Until next time, Go Low!

Jack
 
P.S. Feel free to share this newsletter with family and friends. If you
would like to subscribe to this newsletter, send a blank email to
htb80newsletter@aweber.com

The concept of plane confuses some players. It also confuses some players that come to me for golf lessons. Many are unclear about what it is and what its impact is on your golf swing. Whether you understand the concept of plane or not, swinging off plane is never good.

Focusing on two points—spine angle at address and the position of the left arm on the downswing—clears up the confusion about swing plane and explains its effect on your golf swing and your golf handicap.

Several reasons exist for swinging off plane. Picking the club up with your hands or rolling the clubface open during the swing are two. The most common reason for swinging off plane is adopting the wrong spine angle at address, as I’ve often pointed out in my golf tips,

Spine angle forms the natural axis around which your shoulders should turn at a 90-degree angle. The spine angle you set at address is critical because it decides the shape and plane of your swing. It’s the reason why I focus on adopting the proper spine angle in my golf instruction sessions.

If a player tilts too far over at address, the flatter spine angle causes the shoulders to “tilt” during the swing. As a result, your left arm comes off your chest during your swing, your backswing becomes upright, and your swing plane too steep. Fat shots, deep divots, and pulls and slices are symptoms of a steep plane.

If a player leans too far back at address, the more erect spine angle causes the shoulders to flatten during the swing. As a result, your left arm squeezes too tightly against your chest, your backswing becomes flatter, and your swing plane too shallow. Hitting behind the ball, thin shots, and loss of power are symptoms of a shallow plane.

Keep in mind that a taller player has a naturally steeper swing plane than a shorter person does, and a shorter player has a naturally flatter swing plane than a taller person does.

While your shoulder turn and arm swing are related, a good backswing requires a left arm swing that’s on a slightly higher plane than your shoulders. This arm angle allows your shoulders to have more of a free passage to the ball on the downswing. If your left arm swing is off, you’ll automatically be on the wrong plane with your swing will be off.

Here’s a test I use in my golf lessons to tell if a player is on plane with his/her swing. Take a club, assume your normal posture, and swing to the top. Hold that position for a second. Now, loosen your grip and let the shaft fall.

If the shaft hits you on the top of the right shoulder, your swing is on plane. If it hits you on the head or neck, your swing plane is too steep. Conversely, if it falls behind your back without hitting your body, your swing plane is too shallow.

Employing a simple move at the top of your backswing ensures that you’re taking the right swing plane as you start into the downswing. As you begin your downswing shift your weight onto your left foot while, at the same time, bringing your right elbow back down to your body. Remember to retain the angle of your wrist as you complete this move. It’s the seat of power and the key to maximum distance.

As the weight shifts to the left and the elbow drops down, the club falls automatically into the right slot for the correct swing plane. This movement flattens the swing ever so slightly. It’s the ideal position from which to swing the club down at the ball, delivering the clubhead squarely to the ball.

In essence you’re actually employing two swing planes to hit the ball correctly, one slightly different than the other. The first comes from executing the correct take away. The second from dropping down your right elbow just before the downswing.

That slightly different swing plane is crucial. It runs right through the correct angle of your spine, the natural axis around which your shoulders should turn, enabling you to deliver a clean crisp blow to the ball with a square clubhead and good power. And that’s the goal of all golf instruction on swing plane.

I hope this article clears up the confusion about swing planes. If you work on taking the club back on the right plane and on dropping your right elbow down during your swing, you’ll see results. That, in turn, will help you lower both your individual golf scores and your golf handicap.

Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book “How To Break 80 And Shoot Like The Pros.” He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that has helped thousands of golfers from all seven continents lower their handicap immediately. He has a free weekly newsletter with the latest golf tips, golf lessons and golf instruction.

Whenever I talk about irons in my golf lessons, students invariably ask which style is best—cavity back or blade. The cavity back has its advantages and its disadvantages. It also has its fans.

Golfers, however, shouldn’t choose an iron style because it’s popular in the clubhouse, since the style many not fit their game. The key to iron styles, as I’ve said in my golf tips, is finding what’s right for you.

Cavity backs are popular these days—and for good reason. A cavity back has a small amount of metal removed from the back of its clubface, producing a small hole. Removing the metal re-distributes the clubhead’s weight around the edges of the clubface, father away from the center of gravity (COG).

Re-positioning the COG creates a much more forgiving iron, with a larger sweet spot along the blade. Thus, a mis-hit with a cavity back is more likely to stay on target than a similar shot with a blade. Why? Because the cavity back twists less in a player’s hand when the ball is mis-hit. A mis-hit with a cavity back is also more likely to travel farther than with a blade.

Cavity backs are “game improvement’’ clubs, offering special features that help golfers play better, like an oversize head. I’ve talked about these clubs in my golf tips. Players with high and mid golf handicaps prefer cavity backs, although some low handicappers and touring pros use them.

Blade irons are not as popular as cavity backs. A blade iron features a solid clubface back, distributing the weight more evenly across the clubface, closer to the clubhead’s COG. Thus, a blade has a much smaller sweet spot than a cavity back. A blade is also much less forgiving than a cavity back because it twists more in a player’s hands on mis-hits.

Distributing the weight evenly across the clubface, however, creates an iron with better control and more feel. These irons need to be hit nearly perfectly, though, to avoid a bad shot. Thus, it takes a lot of practice and experience to hit these irons well, something I work on in my golf lessons with low handicappers.

The blade iron is known as a more traditional iron because it lacks the cavity back’s special game improvement features. Players with low golf handicaps and touring pros prefer the blade style iron because the added control and feel enables them to shape their shots better—a necessity when playing on challenging courses.

Manufacturers make cavity backs and blades in cast and forged versions. The terms “cast” and “forged” refer to the manufacturing process used to form the iron head’s shape.

Casting turns the metal from which the iron head is made into a molten liquid, which is then poured into a mold to form the iron head. It’s then left to cool.

Forging involves pounding or compressing the metal, in it’s solid form, from which the iron head is made into the desired shape. Other machining and drilling steps complete production.

The manufacturing process has no impact on the iron’s capabilities, as I’ve explained in previous golf tips. If you have two irons, one forged and one cast, of exactly the same shape, with the same center of gravity, same loft, same grip, hitting the same ball, and so on, the shots will travel the same distances 99 percent of the time. And the players won’t know which iron head is cast and which forged.

You need to find the iron style that best fits your game, as I point out in my golf instruction. If you’re a less experienced golfer, the cavity back is probably a wiser choice, since you’re more likely to mis-hit a ball. If you’re a more experienced player, then a blade is probably your best choice, since it provides more control and better feel for shaping shots.

The best way of choosing a style that fits your needs is to test it out. Hit a few balls with each style. If one style feels better than another does, and you have confidence in it, that’s the style that’s right for you.

Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book “How To Break 80 And Shoot Like The Pros.” He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that has helped thousands of golfers from all seven continents lower their handicap immediately. He has a free weekly newsletter with the latest golf tips, golf lessons and golf instruction.

When it comes to the swing, my golf instruction hinges on a simple idea: The swing is a chain reaction. What occurs at the start of the swing influences what happens at the end. If you execute the takeaway and backswing properly, you’ll hit the ball with accuracy and power. If you don’t, you’ll hit the ball off-line and with little power.

A proper takeaway is critical to a good swing. Like the catalyst in a chain reaction, the takeaway starts everything in motion, as I stress in my golf tips. It introduces width and coordination in the swing, and determines the quality and shape of the shot. In fact, many experts consider the first 30 inches of the takeaway the most crucial point in the swing.

A one-piece movement starts the takeaway. To achieve this, sweep the club back low and slow as your left knee, hip, and shoulder turn to the right. Shift your weight slightly onto the right foot (for right-handers), creating the feeling as if the move was “all arms.” And hold your chin up as you take the club away to allow for a full left shoulder turn.

Here, some golf instruction differs on the position of the left heel. No hard and fast rules state that it should remain planted during takeaway. You’re free to lift it if you have to. I recommend in my golf lessons that you keep it planted as long as you can, creating resistance in the swing. However, if your heel must come up to complete the body-turn, then by all means lift it. It all depends on how flexible you are.

Also, keep your wrists passive until the club reaches the height of your right hip. Cock your writs at this point as you complete the body turn, forming a right angle between the shaft and the left forearm.

This is a good checkpoint. If your wrists form a 90-degree angle and the club is on plane, your takeaway has been sound.

Continue turning your arms and body until you’re at the top of the swing, or in the slot. Your weight is on your right foot and your club is as close to horizontal as possible. Both thumbs are under the shaft.

Next comes a key transition point, one that I really focus on in my golf lessons. It needs to be smooth and unhurried, so don’t rush it. If you do, your swing will be come too narrow.

Many tour players and players with low golf handicaps employee Harvey Penick’s “Magic Move” at this point. It’s ideal for beginning the downswing. And it’s simple.

At the start of the downswing, shift your weight gradually to the left side while, at the same time, bringing your right arm closer to your body. That’s it. It’s a subtle but highly effective move.

The Magic Move flattens out the swing plane slightly, putting it on the ideal position from which to swing the club on the optimum path and deliver the clubhead squared to the ball with power.

The rest of the downswing is basically a reaction to what has come before. Retain the 90- degree angle between the left forearm and club as long as you can. Keep the flex in your knees and the gap between them as the club comes down. And settle your weight gradually on the left side of your body. Finally, make sure you keep your body behind the ball at impact.

At this point, if you’ve executed the takeaway and downswing properly, you’ll return to the same position you assumed at the start of your swing. The rest of the swing should follow naturally.

A good exercise to practice when you can’t get to a driving range is the tire drill. It’s one I sometimes use in my golf lessons.

Take an old tire and line it up where the ball should be in your swing. Then take a club, assume your normal set-up. Execute the takeaway and downswing, hitting the tire instead of the ball. Substitute a golf bag for the tire, if you want. Practice this drill as often as you can. It helps perfect the takeaway and backswing.

Your swing, as I said at the beginning of this golf tip, is like a chain reaction. What happens at the start affects what happens at the end. Practice the sequence detailed here, including Harvey Penick’s Magic Move, and you’re well on your way to developing a consistent, error-free swing—and to a lower golf handicap.

Jack Moorehouse is the author of the best-selling book “How To Break 80 And Shoot Like The Pros.” He is NOT a golf pro, rather a working man that has helped thousands of golfers from all seven continents lower their handicap immediately. He has a free weekly newsletter with the latest golf tips, golf lessons and golf instruction.